Milwaukee River

My worldwide audience must be confused, thinking this is a kayaking site. Yet, the last four Tales have been full of pictures of my family and friends. Well, I planned to change that, Monday, June 8. I woke up, had breakfast, then headed to Laacke and Joys on Water Street just north of downtown Milwaukee. This Milwaukee institution, which I knew best as a ski shop, now rents kayaks. I arrived about 9:40, to discover it did not open until 10. So, I walked to the nearby Cherry Street Bridge to check out the River. You can't tell from these pics, but it was flowing fast through the bridge. Looked to be a lot of work for a short paddle on a cloudy day, so I decided to tour the Milwaukee River by auto, instead of kayak. These four photos are all taken from the Cherry Street Bridge. The cupolas are on the Germainia Building. They are called "Kaiser's Helmets" for obvious reasons.










South, towards downtown.

North view.

No paddlers out, just a poster on L&J's

The tour took me down memory lane. Leaving Laacke and Joys, I drove to Estabrook Park and the "secret spot". A secluded place in the Park that my family frequented for picnics forty years ago. Still a secret. I drove out of the Parkway, had to turn around, missing the turn on the first pass.

I found it.

The "secret spot" is at the Estabrook Dam. There are actually two structures.

A debate is underway as to whether the dam should be removed. http://www.jsonline.com/news/milwaukee/42508252.html

The article mentions debris piling up. It certainly does.

I walked north on a path along the River.

A set of stone steps leads to Port Washington Road and Hampton Ave.

I never knew the stairs were there, even when I was working at the Anchorage in the mid 1980's

A fishing story from those days. One evening, as I bused tables, the hostess told me to set up a large table. I did, muttering, as an identical table next to it was already prepared. As I set the table, a pair of hands set about four cocktails on the table. The gentleman stepped back and gazed out the large windows. "That's beautiful. What is it ?" "The Milwaukee River" "Any fish" "Nothing but carp, but go a mile east to Lake Michigan and you'll catch trout and coho salmon" "Coho, huh?" "Yes" I then realized I was talking fishing with Paul Newman.

The fishery has improved dramatically thanks to the removal of the North Avenue Dam in 1997.

Would removal of the Estabrrok dam further improve fishing? It would eliminate the need to portage. I left Estabrook Park, arriving at Hubbard Park in seven minutes.

Hubbard Park may be the first place I ever paddled. I also spent a lot of time there just running around, and as I got older, walking along the railroad tracks that used to cross the pedestrian and auto tunnels, smoking cigarettes along the way.

I wonder if I appreciated the beauty of the Park and River when I was 12,13 years old.

I have fond memories of rolling down the three terrace hill. Vague recollections of sledding, wondering if I could get enough speed to go all the way to the frozen river.

I left Hubbard Park, headed south on Oakland Ave. Of course I veered off onto Cambridge, so I so could see the boat house.

My destination, Riverside Park. But, I wound up at Gordon Park. Riverside is on the east bank,, Gordon at the west, at the Locust Street Bridge.

In the 29 years I lived in Milwaukee, and visits home in the past 20, I had never visited Gordon Park. It has a play ground and splash fountain at street level. The River is down a high bluff. I began to walk down a very steep trail, but turned back as it got steeper and muddier. I walked a ways, and found an ashphalt path. Steep, but, it led to the River. Where mysertious steps stop. Was the River higher in the past ? Or is this where the pool was? An open meadow, looking like prime deer habitat in the middle of the city. A trail along the River, prime moutain biking terrain. I saw one biker.

A river adds character, recreation and beauty to any city. I'm was lucky to grow up in Shorewood, 1/2 a block from the big pond and a mile from the River. Too bad I'm not a kid today, when the River is much cleaner than it was in the 60's and 70's. The opening picture of this Tale is from Gordon Park. This is the last photo from my day on the River.

My first thought, Holy Rosary. Then I considered where I was and it had to be Sts. Peter and Paul. Three days later, as I compose, I discover it is St. Casimir. Milwaukee is full of old, ethinc churches. As a Irish-German-Polish-Catholic, its a big part of my heritage.

I went back to my Mom's. Pete came by and we went to another old Milwaukee building for lunch.

The flushing station. Built in 1888. Pumps sucked in Lake Michigan water, pulled it through a tunnel a half mile inland, where it emptied into the Milwaukee River to increase flow and push polluants out of of the downtown portion of the River. Back into the Lake.

The pump, the most powerful in the world when it was built, is still in the building, was a few years ago was converted to a eatery by a local coffee shop. Old guy that I am, I think coffee should by 50 cents, served in a china cup, with unlimited refills. I heard we were eating at a coffee shop and asked, "will we be eating little sandwiches with the crusts cut off?" Not at all. Nuskes' ham with provolone on marble rye.

I thought these sunburst chairs were found only at the UW Memorial Union. And Rozga's patio.

A final Lake Michigan shot. I think this is where the water got pulled in by the flushing station.

Driving up Snake Hill.

A shame I had to leave the land of milk and honey, as my friend Rick calls Milwaukee and Wisconsin. Well, at least in the summer.

Final picture. This is just outside security at Mitchell Field. After taking off belt, shoes and being discombobulated.